Did I mention Morocco? CDG Paris Airport
Casablanca, the Atlas Hotel.
I have now driven all over Morocco, it is like playing a
video game, new things coming at you all the time you have to avoid. But
most of the time when I am not playing Moroccan roulette on one lane mountain
highways or dodging hooded pedestrians, sheep, mopeds, or taxis, I am doing rug
bargaining sessions. These are the tourist markets in Marrakech, the souks,where you can have a rug bartering session, a teapot bartering session, a jewelry
bartering session.
Moroccan mint tea and the little center for the surrounding villages, Imlil.
Our host, Lucien, a Berber, was very nice, leaving occasionally for
prayers, " I will be back in 15 minutes" .
First thing, he showed us how bread is made, sticking the dough on the side of the wood burning oven. First the bread is made into dough, then his
aunt stuck it on the side of the stone oven.
While that baked, he taught me how to make the mint tea.
Next day, today, Tuesday, I woke up before dawn,
when the call to prayer was going on, quietly put on my clothes, and walked
into the moonlight night in a Berber village in Morocco, walking through the
walnut trees, along the terraces, looking for the wood bridge, following the
stream path, and eventually finding the road on the other side of the
valley. It was quite cool, I walked up
the road, until I made it around the corner, and could see the big mountain,
the Toubkal massive. Instead of
following the road, I backtracked a bit, where I saw a trail going in the other
direction that looked promising. I
followed this trail, then followed it more, through almond groves, over little
stone dams, through short pine trees, up and up, it was further away than it
seemed, the pass. I kept walking, past the entrance to the Toubkal National
Park. This was exciting, but I had to
hurry, finally made it to the pass where there was a little refuge.
roof cats are everywhere
the black and white butcher and casablanca from the air, sounds like a poem.
trail to the village, by mule
Paris and then the Moroccan freeway.
inside a typical Riad, this one in Marrakech
every rug
session must begin with the same notebook. everywhere, the notebook is the
same. The store guys were doing the hard sell, not giving a
price, but waiting, always saying I will give you good price, then always,
without fail, wanting to sell you anything you looked at all at once, the
global price, and then acting terribly affronted, abused, insulted, if you said
you wanted to go home and think about it. It was funny, maddening,
interesting how they all had exactly the same strategy.
These are the very old scarves, shawls, embroidered pieces, very expensive and no bargaining.
The Atlas Sky Hotel, so convenient to the Casablanca airport and the man who sold me nuts every day in Marrakech.
Casablanca Mohammed V or VI Airport
Finally, we drove up and up, long after we
thought we should be going down to the straight road, up to a high pass, the
could have passed for the French engineering wonder, and then back down the
other side, looking out over the vast southern Morocco landscape, past a few
small tea houses. It was steep cliff
drop off, with no barrier in many places.
At one point a large truck was coming up the other side, and a dog was
in our lane. It was the first dog I had seen the entire trip, they much prefer
cats here, there are cats everywhere.
The dog saw the situation and jumped up on the retaining wall, there was
a steep rock side of the mountain next to the truck., it was an impasse. We drove down to the valley, hit a lovely section of two lane
road, then onto a straightaway, 80 to 100 km speed limit, except for the towns
with speed bumps, which looked like something from the apocalypse or a Mad
Max movie, all the buildings looked
deserted with a few lone figures slouched outside or walking through the dust
and setting sun with their hooded Djellaba robes.
The view back to the Toubkal Massive