latest update

Camp 1, monday
Nima has put together a crack  expedition. He knows i will climb the mountain by myself if i have to, he knows i dont care for rest days, he knows i spent six days on the mountain alone last year, survived a Himalayan snow storm alone without a tent and then walked up the mounain to get my gear. And he doesn't know he half of it. I want to swing those nomix ice tools. so Nima knew what to do. I landed  in Kthmandu on monday and we were eating lunch in base camp on Saturday. The Austrians, who are the only group left, took 9 days to set up camp 1, we did it in two. Today, accoring to the llama's instructions, we Started out with our left foot, walked around the altar shrine we had built, site of the Pujah yesterday, paused at the altar display, stood in the juniper smoke and then we were off to camp on a very long walk up the ridge through the Cambian ocean floor, over the Mourdor boulder field then up the slabs to camp 1, where we wet up out tents, burned incense and watched the ever present mountain looming larger and larger. i hated to go down but unaccountably felt joyfully happy. It took almost 11 hours, but camp one is set up, and in my old camping ledge. I am pretty sure our cook did not spend too much time in culinary school, but her does make a nice garlic soup which i am eating now. Tom did famously today and is relaxing in our spacious base camp tent.

Latest plan after much Negotiation with Nima, intrigue among the Austrians, the sweedes went home. Monday carry to camp 1, 18,525 feet, then back to base camp, 15,600 feet. Tuesday rest. Wednesday camp 1, sleep there, Thrusday camp 2, 19,662 feet, then return to base camp. Friday rest Saturday rest, sunday camp 1, monday camp 2, tuesday summit!

Latest bulletin from he Sherpa network, so Nima tendri sherpa, our Nima got together with the other sherpa guides had a few drinkd and figured out a plan which has me leading up from camp 3 to the summit, thats right ice climbing on the lead at 22,000 feet.

Ama Dablam base camp is cold and windy much of the time. One of the reasons people turn back. Also, the mountain is huge, impsing, imtimidating. in the morning sun the ice glistens. Even people who have climbed Everest go home when they see what is required on this mountain, It does not have the extreme altitude challenges of Everest, but it does serious climbing on steep rock, mixed climbing on rock snow and long stretches of blue ice. The mountain is an imposing presence that creates its own weather.

We left base camp this morning my 85 liter pack was full, after getting to the rock arrow on the first ridge i did not think i could take another step my legs could barely move under the weight. but then angels and flying spirits began to carry the pack. also tom taylor kept up the most interesting conversation. He is a brilliant hiking companion. We are now at camp one, with all of our equipment. we are greatly blessed. i can send this because i am on a knife ridge that looks down all the way to Pangbuche and beyond. We do not plan to come down until we climb the mountain.